This KidKraft-inspired modern outdoor kids table build easily replicates the popular modern kids furniture style fur under $25!
KidKraft-Inspired Modern Outdoor Kids Table Build
A few weeks ago, our neighbor gave us her old play house. We’re the third owners in the neighborhood to have it, and Ramona loves it. We have it on the deck upstairs, and every nice morning and evening, she likes to play in it. And by play, I mean go inside the house, then outside the house, then back in. Shut the door. Open the door. Shut the door. Open the door.
So one morning I took her table and chairs outside from the living room so she could eat her breakfast while she playing with her house. Of course, she loved it. so I decided I had to make her an outdoor dining set for what it otherwise a pretty empty deck. (We’ve mostly focused on the area under the deck.) I’m teaming up with my bud Anika again from Anika’s DIY Life to bring you this tutorial (printable plans linked at the end of the post)!
This table is inspired by KidKraft’s popular line of furniture, specifically their table and chair sets. You’ll also notice some chairs in these photos…I won’t be sharing the tutorial for those just yet (give me some time!). But I will soon! So hang tight. You can work on the table in the meantime 🙂
If you like this build, check out my roundup of projects to put your KregJig to work, my dollhouse bookcase plans, and my DIY trellis for vining plants 🙂 Oh—and if you like this style, check out Ramona’s modern gender-neutral nursery!
Here’s a video of the build:
- Lumber (**see plans linked at the end of this post for a detailed cut list!)
- KregJig K4 pocket hole system
- Wood glue
- Orbital sander
- Wood filler
- Bar clamps
- Miter saw
- Outdoor stain and sealer
And here’s how I made our modern kids table.
Step 1: Cut Pieces and Drill Pocket Holes
Step 2: Create Table Top
Next I created the table top by using wood glue, pocket hole screws, and bar clamps to edge glue my three table top pieces together. I didn’t spring for very nice wood, so you’ll notice some warping that is especially evident when the pieces are glued together.
Don’t worry, I was able to fix most of this warping when I attached the table top to the base. If you want to avoid this problem, don’t settle for the cheapest wood with the most warping like I did to save a couple bucks on the top. 🙂
Once you clamp the pieces together, you can use a rag to wipe the excess wood glue that has seeped out. You can also get rid of some of this later when you’re sanding.
Step 3: Begin building the base.
I started building the base by attaching one of the aprons to two of the legs. I used clamps to help with this since the angles made it more difficult. Then I repeated that step with the other two legs.
Since the table is just a square, you can really build the base by attaching the pieces in any order, really. This is just how I did it. Just make sure the horizontal pocket holes face out, while the vertical pocket holes face in.
Step 4: Finish building the base.
Once I had two legs sets, each connected with an apron, I joined those two together using the remaining aprons. Again, make sure the vertical pocket holes are facing in.
Clamps help with this process too. Much like the water table for toddlers I built, the wood can be a bit wonky and needs some help being guided to the exact right spot. Once the pocket hole screws are all in place, you don’t have to worry about it.
Step 5: Attach finished base to the top.
Ta-da! Here’s the pretty finished base. It’s simple to attach it to the top. Just flip the top upside down on the workbench, position the base on top of the tabletop (which is really the bottom of the table top). I used bar clamps here to fix some of that warping I mentioned before.
The bar clamps help to pull everything together. Then I was able to drive pocket holes screws through the vertical pocket holes and attach everything together.
Sorry, no pics of this step, but it’s pretty self-explanatory. I forgot to hit record on the camera…oops.
Step 6: Fill pocket holes and finish.
Next I used wood filler to fill all of the visible pocket holes. I also added some wood filler to some of the gaps in the top. Then I sanded down the excess wood filler so everything was smooth.
I finished this table using an outdoor stain and sealer that has an opaque finish that makes it look like paint. I did white on the base and a gray on the top. Two coats of each, just because this will be in a high-sun area. (I’ve previously used the gray and only done one coat.)
And here’s the finished table! I am so proud of how this one turned out. My first time working with some trickier angles on the legs and aprons, and it looks sharp.
GRAB THE FREE PRINTABLE PDF BUILD PLANS FOR THIS PROJECT HERE!
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