Tips for Edge Gluing Wood Boards Together
I’m working on building a new coffee table for my living room right now. We’ve been using a painted trunk for years, but we no longer need the extra storage space, and having a coffee table that is a bit more functional (read: something that I can sit on the floor and eat Chinese food at while watching TV) was appealing. I also liked the idea of having something that was a bit less intrusively boxy in the center of the room; I’d hoped something with legs would help open things up a bit.
I decided to edge glue up some wood boards to make a coffee table. Since I got the bright idea on a Sunday afternoon and decided that I absolutely had to get started immediately (sometimes I am impulsive when I get an idea in my craw), I didn’t use reclaimed wood or any other sort of recycled material (a no-no for some of you…sorry!). I headed over to my Home Depot and picked up 6 2in x 2in x 8ft pieces of select pine. I had them cut each piece in half, which left me with 12 4ft pieces just begging me to get gluing.
Since 900 million edge gluing tutorials already exist on the Internet, I’m not going to share a step-by-step tutorial. If you need one, I suggest heading over to YouTube and searching “how to glue wood boards together.” I think that the process is a bit easier to understand with video, and there are some good ones. Instead, I’m going to share some tips that I’ve learned!
Here are my tips for edge gluing wood boards together.
(Remember to wear a mask and eye protection while sanding and working with wood, and wear an appropriate mask while working with paints, stains, and finishes. Follow the directions and warnings from your particular brand. Do not use any tools without proper training, precautions, and supervision. This post also contains affiliate links. You can read more about that here. Thank you!
1. Running your boards through a planer first is helpful.
A planer will make all of your boards the same size, which will make gluing them together much easier. I didn’t do this for the coffee table, and it made the clamping process more difficult (but not impossible!). I waited to plane my pieces until after I had already glued some sets together.
If you don’t have access to a planer, you can use a hand planer, but I don’t have any experience with those. If you don’t want to do any planing, you could do some heavy sanding or at least line your boards up and examine the edges for bends or other deformities. You might be able to make some matches that will make clamping easier.
2. Work on a big, flat area.
This will help when you’re lining up your boards. It will also be helpful when you’re twisting your clamps; you’ll need to move the boards around—clamps and all—to be able to get a good grip when twisting shut each seam. For the coffee table, my dad had the great idea to work on a piece of drywall flipped upside down:
3. Don’t glue too many boards together at once.
For my coffee table, I had a total of 12 boards to glue. I decided to start off by gluing a group of 4—this was too many for me. I found that gluing 3 together was the easiest for me to manage without getting really frustrated trying to keep them all perfectly lined up.
I glued sections together in stages since I didn’t have unlimited clamps. I added 1 or 2 boards each stage. After a lot of gluing, I was left with 1 piece of 7 boards and 1 piece of 5 boards. Gluing those together wasn’t too difficult.
4. Don’t use too much glue.
You don’t want to go overboard on the glue, but you also don’t want to use too little. The right amount of glue also depends on the size of the surfaces you’re clamping. If you’re clamping the boards and there are mounds of glue spilling out everywhere, you’ve probably used too much. Have rags on hand to wipe off excess glue; this will save time after the glue dries and needs to be scraped off while sanding!
Check out the right set of boards below (the one with clamps on it). Some of the seams on that set of boards had way too much glue.
5. Make it a two-person job.
This can definitely be a one-person job, but I found it really helpful to have my dad’s extra set of hands to help apply pressure while clamping. I did the first few pieces on my own, but once my pieces got bigger, he held the boards down and in place while I cranked the bar clamps (or vice versa, since my weakling hands struggled on some of the trickier clamps).
6. Have a variety of clamp sizes on hand.
We used a variety of bigger bar clamps down the body of the wood, but we used much smaller clamps, including c-clamps, on the ends. The boards kept popping up on the ends when we put pressure on the middle clamps; it was like a see-saw. So the smaller end clamps helped keep the boards lined up by applying pressure from above and below.
7. Use paint stirrers to prevent the clamps from denting the wood.
We cut paint stirrers up into smaller pieces and slid them between the wood boards and the clamps. If you don’t protect the wood but need to get a really tight clamp, you’ll end up puncturing or denting the wood because of all the pressure. By using paint stirrers, you’re putting the pressure on something else. The left photo below shows what can happen when you don’t project the wood. The right photo shows how to use pieces of paint stirrers for protection.
What other tips do you have for edge gluing and clamping wood boards together?