Monstera standleyana albo variegata is a beautiful tropical plant that also makes a wonderful houseplant. Learn about how to care for it, if it fenestrates, how to propagate it, and more with this post.
Monstera standleyana albo variegata care
My monstera deliciosa is one of my favorite houseplants, and I will never turn down the chance to add a new type of monstera to my collection! I find them generally pretty easy to care for, and today’s plant is no exception.
It’s a monstera standleyana albo variegata. Quite the mouthful 🙂 So I’ll refer to it mostly as simply monstera standleyana throughout this post.
Monstera standleyana is a climbing or trailing plant native to areas of South and Central America. It has small, oval-shaped leaves that are about 6-8 inches long at their largest. So while this plant can climb and trail many, many feet, the leaves stay relatively small.
But while they stay smaller than those on some other monstera varieties, they have a stunning variegation. The deep green glossy leaves have white speckles and sometimes even pure white splashes, strokes, or bands.
The leaves can have a wide variety of variegation patterns on them, too. While some leaves can be very lightly variegated, others can have heavy stunning variegation. Every leaf is a surprise 🙂
Does monstera standleyana fenestrate?
No. Unlike many other monstera varieties, monstera standleyana albo variegata does not develop fenestrations (or splits/holes) as the plant matures. The leaves do increase in size, though. Often giving the plant something to climb helps with this.
Is monstera standleyana rare?
As of writing this in mid-2022, one of my favorite local nurseries has monstera standleyana in stock. And they have it on their rare table with a security camera pointed straight at it.
However, they are selling it for only $40 for a decent-sized plant. So I don’t know that I would necessarily call it rare as much as “hard to find.” You certainly won’t find it in a big box or grocery store plant section.
You can also easily find these plants for decent prices from small shops on Etsy (affiliate link) or through a variety of other online plant retailers. It isn’t cheap, but it isn’t a huge splurge…so add it to your list!
Is monstera standleyana a philodendron?
No, it isn’t. It’s a monstera. Monstera is the genus, and standleyana is the species. Philodendron is also a genus—but a different one. Both monstera and philodendron belong to the same family, though.
It’s easy to think monstera plants are philodendrons because of how rampant incorrect naming is between the two. For example, the very popular and common monstera deliciosa is sooo often referred to as a “split-leaf philodendron” or even a “monstera philodendron.”
How do you care for a standleyana?
Now let’s get into the care routine for a monstera standleyana albo variegata. It’s very similar to the other monstera types you may already own and love—with just a few tweaks.
How much light does this plant need?
Bright indirect light or even medium light levels are best for standleyana. While variegated plants generally need more light than non-variegated ones, it’s best to keep this one out of any direct sun.
I did have mine on my front porch for a few weeks, and that area gets direct morning sun. I think that even this was a bit too much for the plant. Not enough to burn the foliage, which direct sun can definitely do.
But enough to show some signs of stress like leaf curling. So I moved the plant farther back behind my giant rubber plant which almost totally covers it. When fall hits, I’ll put it near a bright window indoors.
Avoid low light, though. It can lead to slow, smaller leaf growth. And leggy growth, which is when the plant’s stems stretch to reach for light, making the space between new growth longer.
Why are my monstera standleyana leaves curling?
I mentioned leaf curling in the previous section. If your monstera standleyana’s leaves are curling inward, it’s likely a result of too much light. The plant is trying to protect itself. It could also be a result of too little water.
This is reversible, though. If you move the plant to more appropriate lighting conditions, it should rebound. If it’s a watering issue, give it a good drink, and it should bounce back.
What is the best soil?
Anything light and well-draining. Honestly, most soils that come pre-mixed in a bag labeled “houseplant” or “indoor plants” are probably totally fine.
However, I like to mix in a few other soil amendments to help with lightweight moisture retention and drainage. (Read more about soil amendments here!)
I don’t like using succulent soils for monstera plants because of the sand in them. Instead, I like to use a potted plant soil as the base and then add in handfuls of coarse perlite, shredded coconut coir, and coconut husks or orchid bark.
It’s true that investing in all of these additives is a higher up-front cost, but I have a lot of plants. And they still last forever! But if you don’t have a ton of plants or aren’t mixing up a bunch of soil mixtures, just grab a bag at a local nursery.
How often should I water a monstera standleyana?
Having the right kind of soil is the best first step to ensuring you are also watering your monstera standleyana appropriately. That’s because a well-draining has the right amount of moisture retention without being too soggy.
I recommend letting the top several inches of soil dry out before you water the plant again. Don’t let it dry out completely, though. (If you stretch it too far between watering sessions, it will probably bounce back, though.)
When you do water the plant, do it in a sink, in a tub, or outside (if it’s nice weather). Water the plant thoroughly until the water is running out of the pot’s drainage holes. And try to rinse off the foliage while you’re at it!
Let the water finish draining before you put the plant back. For plants that enjoy a deep watering like this—I like to keep them in the plastic nursery pots and just set them down inside of decorative ceramic pots.
Why is my monstera standleyana turning yellow?
If your monstera standleyana is turning yellow, there could be a few culprits. The first thing I almost always recommend checking is your watering routine.
Most people overwater their plants. I know a lot about plants and I still overwater mine sometimes! It happens. And it can often lead to yellowing leaves.
But why does overwatering cause yellow leaves? Well, overwatering suffocates the roots. It drowns them. When you let the soil dry out a bit, you also ensure that oxygen can get to the plant’s roots.
And when the roots are drowning, they start to kill off foliage. Leaves begin turning yellow and then eventually will die off completely. They can’t be saved.
Frustratingly for new plant owners, though—underwatering can also cause yellow leaves. Depriving the plant’s roots of water will lead it to take life-saving measures. These measures include killing off leaves to maintain itself.
Of course, many plants have leaves that yellow simply due to age. If the leaves are older and the plant is otherwise happy, don’t panic. This is a normal part of the aging process.
Monstera standleyana care & temperature needs
As a tropical plant from Central and South America, monstera standleyana loves warm temperatures. Temps in the 70s, 80s, and even low 90s Fahrenheit are best. Even temps that drop below these are fine.
However, monstera standleyana is not cold or frost hardy. If temperatures are consistently dropping down into the low 50s at night and you have the plant outdoors, it’s probably time to end its summer vacation.
The plant tolerates a variety of household temperatures very well. However, don’t be alarmed if the growth slows a lot in the winter. Even with central heating to keep things warm, the days are shorter and there’s still a chill in the air to remind standleyana it isn’t in the jungle anymore.
Humidity—how little can this plant tolerate?
Monstera plants grow best in high humidity, and that includes the monstera standleyana. That’s why I like to take monstera plants outside for our humid summers.
However, you can mimic this plant’s jungle roots year-round by adding a humidifier. If I’m being honest, I hate humidifiers and find them to be a huge pain. So I only really run them during the driest part of winter.
A lot of this depends on the climate where you live. But, don’t worry too much. This isn’t a calathea. Monstera plants are generally tolerant of the lower humidity levels that most households have.
Is monstera standleyana fast growing?
No, monstera standleyana is not particularly fast growing. I wouldn’t say it’s terribly slow if it’s in the right conditions. But it doesn’t throw out new growth left and right like a deliciosa or a Peru.
If you want to give it a bit of an extra boost, you can fertilize the plant. If you use a chemical fertilizer—which is totally fine—make sure to dilute it the appropriate amount.
If you don’t dilute it, the fertilizer will be too harsh and will burn the plant’s roots. Because I don’t like trying to remember every plant’s fertilizer needs, I don’t use chemical fertilizers.
Instead, I work organic worm castings into the top layer of soil at the beginning of the growing season if I am not repotting the plant. If I am repotting the plant, I use fresh, high-quality potting soil that is jam-packed with nutrients.
I also add Liqui-Dirt concentrated fertilizer to my watering can roughly once a month. It’s not cheap…but I have a lot of plants, and my package this year lasted me from March through September when I usually stop fertilizing for the fall and winter anyways.
How do you repot a monstera standleyana?
Because this plant isn’t a particularly fast grower, it doesn’t have demanding repotting needs. Depending on growing conditions, it could be roughly every 2 to 3 years.
Check to see if the roots are either beginning to grow above the soil line or out of the pot’s drainage holes. This means the plant is searching for more room, and it’s time to upgrade.
I generally don’t loosen a plant’s roots when I repot it. I simply size up 1-2 inches on the pot, add fresh soil in the bottom, set the plant’s root ball in, and fill in with more soil around the edges and on the top.
Where can I cut monstera standleyana?
The plant has very little need for pruning, but you can prune the plant for a desired shape. You can also remove older or dying leaves so that the plant can focus its energy on new growth.
You can cut the plant at any point and not hurt it. It will rebound quickly. But if you want to take a cutting of the monstera standleyana to propagate it, you’ll need to have a growth point or two. (More on that in the propagation section up next!)
How do you propagate monstera standleyana in water?
Water is a very easy way to propagate plants, and it’s a suitable approach for most types of monstera plants. The process starts with taking the appropriate type of stem cutting.
Pop on some gardening gloves and grab a pair of clean scissors or shears. Locate a spot on the plant that you can cut. It should have at least two leaves and one or two growth points and/or aerial root nubs.
Below is an example of where you can cut on a monstera standleyana. You can also cut really anywhere on the stem and remove the bottom-most set of leaves to expose growth points. However, don’t make the cutting too big—it’s easiest to root a smaller cutting.
Pop the cutting in water and monitor the root development, refreshing the water every week or so. Make sure it doesn’t evaporate below the growth points.
Once the roots are a few inches long, you can transfer the cutting to soil. Don’t be alarmed if your monstera standleyana cutting wilts. It is likely suffering from transplant shock and will rebound once the roots convert to those sufficient for living in soil.
Keep the soil moist to help this process along. Once you can tug the cutting and are met with a bit of resistance, begin treating the plant as normal.
Want specific monstera propagation guides? Check out my Monstera Adansonii Propagation post and my guide for How to Propagate Monstera Deliciosa From a Cutting!
Rooting standleyana in moss & perlite or LECA
Two other ways I like to root monstera plants are by using moss and perlite or by using LECA. Both of these methods help to grow roots that are strong than those grown in water—and therefore suffer from less transplant shock when it’s time for soil.
For moss and perlite, you simply nest the cutting in moss and perlite. Keep the humidity high by using a plastic baggie or a DIY plant propagation box. Read more about the sphagnum moss and perlite propagation process here.
For LECA, just nest the cutting snugly down into LECA. Add enough water so that it just reaches the bottom of the cutting. Refresh as needed and monitor root growth. Read more about LECA propagation here.
Is monstera standleyana toxic?
Yes, monstera standleyana—and all monstera plants— are toxic if ingested. The ASPCA (who also frustratingly calls monstera a “cut-leaf philodendron”), states that monstera plants have insoluble calcium oxalates.
Ingesting these can lead to oral irritation; intense burning and irritation of mouth, tongue and lips; excessive drooling; vomiting; and difficulty swallowing. Keep this plant away from pets or humans—including kids—who might try to ingest it.