Are you looking for philodendron grazielae care and propagation information? This gorgeous slow-growing philodendron will make a wonderful addition to your houseplant collection if you can find it!
Philodendron grazielae care and propagation
Hi all! Today I am talking about philodendron grazielae care and propagation. My philodendron grazielae came from a wonderful friend who found it at a big box store and grabbed it for me. It was so full and gorgeous when I got it.
However, it wasn’t super happy where I had it in my house. I decided to try to keep it happy until early May when I could bring it outside for the summer, hoping I would like it more outside. It was looking kind of yucky, and I wasn’t sure if I was vibing with it.
Outside, however, I burnt the crap out of it. I didn’t realize how sensitive the leaves were to direct sun, even in early May! After trimming the burnt leaves off, I was even more irritated with this plant. I even thought about selling it.
Then I repotted it back to a smaller pot—a hanging basket—and things started to look up. I now really like how it looks on my DIY hanging plant rod and am looking forward to seeing how it continues to grow this summer!
Philodendron grazielae overview
Before we jump into philodendron grazielae care, let’s talk a bit about the plant. It’s a climbing variety of philodendron—one of almost 500 philodendron species, in fact—and hails from rainforests, where it climbs beautifully up tree trunks and other things.
The plant has thick, beefy stems that produce gorgeous shiny medium-green leaves that remind me of raindrops of hearts. Although mine came in a hanging basket and that’s where I have it now, they also do well with trellises or moss poles. (See my easy DIY bamboo trellis and my DIY jute pole.)
Since the stems are quite thick and the leaves somewhat large, this plant definitely needs some sort of help to stay upright. The vines tend to grow up and climb more than they do hang. I have mine wrapped up around the hanger part of the plastic hanging planter.
These plants are very slow growers, too. They ultimately don’t grow to be larger than a few feet. Mine already has one pretty long stem, though!
Philodendron grazielae care: Light needs
So let’s talk about philodendron grazielae care. We’ll cover light needs first. Philodendron grazielae plants enjoy bright indirect light. In nature, it is shielded from direct sunlight by a dense canopy of other plants.
Therefore, you should shoot to mimic this same environment at home. Near a bright, sunny window is great inside. Outdoors, I have mine on a covered patio.
As I mentioned in the beginning of this post, I accidentally burned my plant when I first brought it outside. I thought a bit of morning sun would be fine, but it quickly scorched the leaves. I had to pick those off and move the plant.
I am never too worried about too much direct sunlight indoors just because my house is not that bright. However, if you’re a lucky duck and have a super bright house, it might be a problem for you.
You can also use grow lights to help your plant a long. I like LED grow lights because they do not get too hot. See my post about how to use grow lights with houseplants for more.
Water like most other houseplants; this one isn’t picky. Check to make sure the top few inches of the plant’s soil has dried out before you water it again.
Of course the frequency of watering can depend on the time of year and the temperature. For example, indoors I’d probably water mine about once a week in the summer. Outdoors, however, the heat dries the soil out much faster.
Make sure you do not keep the soil constantly wet, though. This can lead to root rot and other issues like fungal growth and everyone’s favorite houseplant accessory—fungus gnats.
Drooping leaves on a philodendron grazielae
If the leaves on your graz are drooping and just generally looking pretty sad but remain green, you are probably under-watering. Typically the plant will bounce back once your give it a drink.
If it turns out some of the leaves are beyond saving and do not bounce back, simply pluck them off.
Yellowing leaves on a philodendron grazielae
If your grazielae has leaves that are turning yellow, you’re likely over-watering it. Check to make sure the top few inches of soil dries out before you water the plant again. And make sure you’re using a well-draining potting mix.
Potting a philodendron grazielae
Speaking of watering, soil issues, and root rot, choosing a good pot is a great way to avoid these things as well. A pot with a drainage hole will ensure you can water your grazielae thoroughly, letting the excess water drain off.
As far as repotting goes, these bad boys are sloooow growers, so they don’t need to be repotted often. Putting them in a pot that is too big can also lead to too much soil and consequently too much water retention.
What is the best soil to use when repotting?
A well-draining soil will help prevent your plant from getting too water-logged. It will retain the appropriate amount of moisture while allowing excess water to flow freely through the drainage hole.
I haven’t fertilized my grazielae. Instead, I decided to use worm castings for all of my plants this year. Worm castings are, well, worm poop. Learn more about soil amendments in my houseplant soil 101 post.
Ideal temperature and humidity conditions
Philodendron grazielae does well in all normal household temperatures. Anything between 65 degrees and 85 degrees Fahrenheit is best. But don’t worry if it’s a bit hotter outside and your plant is outdoors for the summer.
You might just need to water it more if it’s super hot because the water will be zapped from the soil. This plant is not cold hardy, though. So it needs to come indoors when the temperatures drop below about 60 degrees, I’d say. (But it can withstand a few cold snaps.)
Grazielae also tolerates normal household humidity levels well. However, like most tropical plants, it is happier with higher humidity. I definitely noticed an improvement in growth when I moved mine outside into the humid Maryland summer weather!
Indoors, you can try adding a humidifier, misting the plant, or adding a pebble or rock tray. You could also set up a greenhouse cabinet, but my plant is too big for my Ikea greenhouse cabinet.
Philodendron grazielae pest problems
I have not yet had any problems with my philodendron grazielae. However, I have encountered my fair share of houseplant pests. So I’ll cover over the predictable pest lineup and what to do about them.
Aphids, scale, and mealybugs
Aphids are small bugs that suck sap out of your plant, typically from underneath leaves. A tell-tale sign of aphids is a clear, sticky substance on or around your plant. This residue then attracts ants.
This is how I spotted a potential problem with my silver sword philodendron. I noticed ants, followed the ants to the plant, and upon further inspection noticed the clear, sticky sap. Blargh.
Scale is a problem my mom had on her umbrella plant. They are small bug that suck out the good stuff from your plant. A typical sign of them is a sticky brown or orange sap on or around your plant and small hard brown bumps on your plant.
Mealybugs look kind of like a tiny cotton ball bug. Mealybugs often spread quickly, so they can become a problem fast if you have a lot of plants. And honestly they are just so disgusting.
To fix your plant, immediate isolate it when you see a problem. Inspect plants that may have also been affected. Treat affected plants using an over-the-counter houseplant insecticide spray or a mix of diluted neem oil.
Spray the plant down thoroughly, and make sure to get the bottoms of the leaves and the area where the leaves meet the stem. Before I spray them down, I also like to rinse the plant down thoroughly using cold water.
Thrips are the worst thing in the entire world. Getting rid of them is a bit harder than some other pests, so I actually have a whole post dedicated to getting rid of thrips on houseplants. You have to treat the plant from the inside out.
And finally, fungus gnats. These are often the result of overwatering. They won’t hurt your plant, but the overwatering eventually will! And they can be sooo annoying. They always seem to fly directly at your face.
To get rid of fungus gnats, let your plant’s soil dry out. You can also add yellow sticky traps to catch adult flies and slow down reproduction. See my post all about what causes fungus gnats and how to get rid of them.
Philodendron grazielae propagation using stem cuttings
I have propagated my philodendron grazielae using stem cuttings. I have been successful rooting grazielae stem cuttings in both LECA and a sphagnum moss and perlite mix. (See more details about how to root plants in sphagnum moss and how to root plants in LECA.)
Here’s how to propagate a grazielae cutting:
- Take a good stem cutting. Make sure it has 1–3 leaves and is taken right below a leaf node (where the leaf meets the stem). You can also look for the little brown nub nodes on the thick stems.
- Let the cutting rest on a paper towel for a few hours. The stems are thick and juicy, so you want to let them harden over a bit. You can skip this step, but the cutting might be more vulnerable to rotting (like when propagating succulents).
- Place the cutting directly in a well-draining soil, sphagnum moss and perlite mixture, or LECA. If you use soil or moss/perlite, make sure to keep it moist.
Whatever method you use, you can monitor the cutting to ensure your medium doesn’t totally dry out. You can also consider a plastic propagation box to increase humidity and help encourage rooting.
Philodendron grazielae is a slow grower, though, so have patience. My cuttings took much longer than the other cuttings in the box. Using rooting hormone didn’t seem to make much of a difference for me, but there’s no harm in trying.
Is philodendron grazielae toxic to cats and dogs?
Yes, all philodendrons contain calcium oxalate crystals, which are toxic to humans and pets. Best to keep this plant up and out of reach from curious hands or paws. See my post about 16 pet-safe houseplants for some alternatives!