Monstera Pinnatipartita Care

Monstera pinnatipartita is a gorgeous and harder-to-find variety of the genus that looks gorgeous climbing a moss pole. Learn how to care for this tropical lovely as a houseplant with this post!

How do you care for Monstera Pinnatipartita?

When I first saw a Monstera Pinnatipartita in person, I actually thought it was a Monstera Peru. Much like the Peru, the leaves are incredibly detailed and unique, but the Pinnatipartita transforms entirely as it matures. 

The leaves develop deep fenestrations (slots/cuts you may be familiar with on a Monstera Deliciosa) as the plant grows. In many ways, Pinnatipartita looks similar to Deliciosa because of their foliage. However the Pinnatipartita’s fenestrations run deeper into each leaf.

If you’ve cared for one tropical plant, you’ve basically cared for them all. The Monstera Pinnatipartita has a few basic requirements that are common to all similar tropicals.

Origin & background

The Monstera Pinnatipartita grows naturally in South American countries like Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, and even as far up as Costa Rica. It grows in wet tropical rainforests and was first described in 1857.

If you’re shopping for a Monstera Pinnatipartita, it might be a little confusing because the juvenile and adult forms look like entirely different plants. Additionally, they are sometimes misnamed or sold incorrectly as other Monstera species.

This particular plant got its name by process of elimination. Once scientists figured out it differed from the Monstera dobsonii and Monstera karstenianum (Peru), it was named for its pinnatified leaf (aka, incision-like holes in the leaves).

Is Monstera Siam the same as Pinnatipartita?

Yes, as far as I can tell, Monstera Siam and Monstera Pinnatipartita are the same plant. I have seen it labeled as Monstera Pinnatipartita “Siam” as well.

It’s possible that Monstera Siam is a slightly different variety of Monstera Pinnatipartita. But if they are different, I can’t tell! If you know for a fact that they are different, I’d love to hear from you.

Monstera Pinnatipartita is, in fact, different from Monstera Peru, though (full name—Monstera Karstenianum). The juvenile forms of Peru and Pinnatipartita are very difficult to differentiate between.

That’s because it takes Pinnatipartita some time to develop those deep fenestrations in their leaves. Until Pinnatipartita leaves begin fenestrating, they look nearly identical to Peru leaves. Have a look below at Peru leaves (first pic only).

How much light should I give a Monstera Pinnatipartita?

Monstera Pinnatipartita have delicate leaves that aren’t a fan of direct sunlight. That’s because they have evolved to thrive nderneath the dense canopy in the rainforest. As a houseplant, these Pinnatipartita does best with dappled or indirect sunlight. 

Placement is key to the right amount of light—then you can set it and forget it. Avoid sunny windows because you could scorch and damage the leaves. Your plant should do fine near a window with curtains to filter the light. 

Although it is low-light tolerant, if there is not enough light the leaves will grow slower and could even lose their fenestrations. It will also begin to grow less lush and much leggier (aka the space between the leaves on the stems will increase).

If you move your plant outdoors for the spring and summer, make sure to keep it under a dense tree. A shade cloth, sun sail, pergola, or covered patio are also all great options.

What is the best soil?

Monstera Pinnatipartitas grow as epiphytes, meaning they grow on top of other plants and trees. Think of tree trunks as nature’s moss pole. But what is the best soil for an epiphyte?

One with plenty of organic matter and nutrients! The ideal soil mix for a Monstera Pinnatipartita should be something that is well-draining and capable of lightweibght moisture retention.

If you’d prefer to buy a premade soil mix, many independent nurseries sell soil mixes specifically designed for tropical plants like Monsteras. Look for things labeled “aroid” or “tropical houseplant mix.” 

These soils are pre-mixed with the perfect balance of nutrient retention, drainage, and aeration. That’s because the soil is mixed with additives like coco coir or peat moss, perlite, orchid bark, and others.

When I repot my Monstera plants, I generally like to use a high-quality potting soil like a Fox Farm mix. Then I lighten it up by mixing in a handful of coco coir for lightweight moisture retention (a good alternative to peat moss).

I also throw in some coarse perlite to enhance aeration and drainage. You could also opt for orchid bark. Sometimes I also throw in coconut husks that I keep on hand for most of my hoya soil mixes.

How often should you water a Monstera Pinnatipartita?

Like with all tropical houseplants, you’ll want to keep the soil moist but not too wet or soggy. How often you water your Pinnatipartita depends on many factors. But as a rule of thumb you should only water once the top third or so of your pot’s soil has dried.

This should be about once a week during the spring and summer depending on temperature, soil, lighting conditions, etc. Water the soil deeply and allow the excess water to drain out through the bottom of the pot. 

If you notice yellowing leaves on your plant—especially if they aren’t just the occasional older leaf dying off—it might be a sign of overwatering. Overwatering or using soil that is too dense will choke out the roots, which will then kill off foliage in response.

In the fall and winter when temperatures drop and the days get shorter, you’ll probably need to water your plant less. The soil will take longer to dry out, so just stick your finger in or use a moisture meter to gauge.

Temperature & humidity

Tropical plants will always prefer warmer temperatures, but you might be surprised at how well the Monstera Pinnatipartita handles cooler temperatures. The ideal growing range is between 65-85 degrees Fahrenheit, but it will still survive temperatures above or below. 

So long as you keep your plant indoors, you shouldn’t have to worry about the temperature. This plant is not cold or frost hardy though, so keep that in mind if you have it outdoors.

Once temperatures begin dropping consistently into the low 50s at night, it’s probably time to consider bringing it indoors. A few cold snaps down into the low 50s shouldn’t be an issue.

Monstera Pinnatipartita is a moderate to high humidity plant. Although it will tolerate lower levels of humidity, to really see your plant thriving you’ll want to increase the humidity levels. 

You can enhance the humidity in your home by keeping your plants near each other, placing a

pebble tray with water under the plants, or by using a good old fashioned humidifier. This is the best method IMO becuse it provides good, consistent humidity.

If you live in an area that gets hot and humid during the summer, consider summering this one outside in a shady spot. It will thank you with gorgeous large growth!

Is Monstera Pinnatipartita a fast grower?

Monstera Pinnatipartita seems to be a pretty moderate grower. If you have it in ideal growing conditions, you may need to repot the plant every 1-2 years.

I recommend waiting to repot until the plant’s roots begin growing either out of the pot’s drainage holes or up above the soil line. Size up about an inch or two and use fresh soil to replenish nutrients.

Want more Monstera? Check out my Monstera Standleyana Care & Propagation post, my Monstera Dubia Care & Propagation post, my tips for Thai Constellation Monstera Care!

Growth patterns

When I purchased my Monstera Pinnatipartita, it was a baby plant but was already potted with a moss pole. So I am planning to keep it on the moss pole and size the pole up when I need to one day.

You can also grow this plant as a trailing plant. But remember that giving it something to climb will help the plant mature faster, leading to those gorgeous deeply fenestrated leaves.

How long does it take for Monstera Pinnatipartita to mature?

This is a tough question to answer because it really depends on the size of your plant when you purchased it and its growing conditions. My baby plant already has two leaves that are beginning to develop holes.

However, it will likely be a long time before the leaves develop the true deep fenestrations you see online when you Google pictures of Pinnatipartita plants.

You can help your plant mature by giving it ideal growing conditions and performing some routine maitenance. Because the leaves are the real showstoppers for this plant, you’ll want to take great care of them.

When you water the plant, do so in a sink or shower—or outside with a hose if it’s warm—so you can also rinse off the tops and bottoms of the foliage to clean off dust that accumulates in the leaf dimples.

Occasionally I like to conduct some routine pest prevention by spraying down the foliage—tops and bottoms—of my plants with showy leaves. When I spray them down, I generlaly just use a spray bottle with water and heavily diluted neem oil.

The smell isn’t for everyone, but I find that it dissipates quickly. It also helps with leaf shine and can serve as a great pest deterrent. You can spray them down and let them dry—or you can wipe with a damp microfiber cloth.

How do you propagate Pinnatipartita?

Propagating a Monstera Pinnatipartita is simple using the stem cutting method. Using sharp, clean scissors, cut a healthy stem with a few leaves and nodes (nodes are bumps along the stem where leaves would presumably sprout from).

Nodes are important because that’s where you can expect new roots to grow from. Once you have the right type of cutting, you can dip the cut end into rooting hormone to help the process along. Then choose your medium.

In water, refresh the water every few weeks and transfer the cutting to soil when roots are several inches long; keep the soil moist for a few weeks while the plant adjusts to its new substrate.

In LECA, take the same steps, filling the water to just below where the cutting sits. If you’re new to LECA, see my LECA proapgation 101 guide here for more.

In damp moss and perlite; for this medium, you’ll want to keep the humidity high using a plastic propagation box or a clear plastic bag. See my post about sphagnum moss propagation for more.

Straight in soil; skip all the other options and, in a pot with fresh soil, bury the cut end of the stem. Place the pot in bright indirect light and keep the soil moist. Since you won’t be able to see the rooting process, expect it to take about 6-8 weeks.

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