Learn how to make a DIY conduit pipe curtain rod that’s up to 10 feet long, cheap, and has a cool industrial look!
Make an Industrial Conduit Pipe Curtain Rod
I’m on a mad mission to clothe all of our windows in curtains. I want to help prevent drafting for the winter, especially on our two sliding glass doors, which aren’t super energy efficient. But I also think curtains are an easy and affordable way to make your house look like a home, so I’m finally getting around to hanging some.
Today I’m going to chat about how to make the industrial conduit pipe curtain rod that I put up in Mike’s office. As with many of my projects, this one was a contest with myself to see how low I could keep the cost.
So my dad and I hit up Lowe’s after work one day and found a 10-foot piece of .75″ galvanized steel EMT conduit (aka conduit pipe). The list price was $2.70, but since one of the ends was damaged a bit and we didn’t need all 10 feet, we had the cashier knock off $1 (hey, every little bit counts!).
At Lowe’s, conduit pipe comes in lengths of 5 and 10 feet with widths of .5, .75, 1, 1.25, and 1.5 inches. Select your width based on the size your curtain rod brackets can accommodate. I purchased a 10-foot piece with a width of .75 inch. I decided on the .75-inch piece instead of the .5-inch piece because I didn’t want to use a center bracket and needed the pipe to be thick enough not to sag while holding the heavy curtains.
Here are the rest of the supplies I used:
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- Pipe caps: I glued the pipe caps onto the end of the conduit pipe, making finials.
- Brackets: We have ugly vertical blinds mounted on our sliding glass doors, so I needed brackets that extended at least 4.5 inches from the wall. I ordered these.
- Other supplies: Rust-Oleum Protective Enamel in Flat Black, Liquid Nails, power drill and screws, pipe cutter.
And here’s how I did it!
Step 1: I cut the pipe using a pipe cutter. My dad helped me with this one. We cut my pipe down to about 6.5 feet and chucked the damaged end.
Step 2: Next we spray painted the pipe, pipe caps, and brackets. I used Rust-Oleum Protective Enamel in Flat Black—it’s a rust-resistant formula designed for metal. (Check out more colors here.)
Step 3: I mounted the brackets. Then I squirt some Liquid Nails into the pipe caps and popped them on each end of the pipe.
When they had dried completely, I hung the rod in the brackets and dressed it up with some curtains. I love how they hide the ugly vertical blinds the apartment complex has on all of the sliding glass doors…
And that’s it! I think they turned out great, and the total for the materials was only $1.70 for the pipe, $3.96 for the two pipe caps, and $12.99 for the brackets. And I already had the spray paint and the liquid nails.
I could have kept the cost for this project even lower had I not needed larger brackets that extended 4.5 inches from the wall, but even at $18.65, I’m really pleased with the result! Now on to the next project for Mike’s room…showing how I hemmed these curtains!
Where did U get brackets, or what did U use to make it.
Thanks for posting. I am planning to try this solution but I am nervous as many other sources indicate that spray paint will peel from galvanized metal. It has been more than a year since your post so I am curious to know if you have experienced any peeling. Thanks again for sharing.
We have not experienced any, but I did give the metal a light sand before painting, which probably helped!
Thanks very nice blog!
Where did you get the brackets? I can’t seem to find any similar but I really like the ones you used!
Hey Nicole! Here they are! I just spray painted mine.
We are needing to do a 9 ft curtain rod. I’m curious if we could get away with out a center support.
If it’s up there securely with strong end brackets, I don’t see this thing buckling! They make different widths, too. Maybe a wider width would help with strength.
Great idea but do you find the paint scraping off when you open and close the curtains?
I was worried about that, but I haven’t noticed any scraping yet!